A Nearly Perfect Cheval Blanc

What makes a perfect wine?

To a large extent, it is up to the climate.  2022 was a hot and dry year in Bordeaux.  Old hands compare it to 2003 as 2003 is remembered as the first vintage with such climate conditions.  Like so much else, these two years were not identical, but they rhymed.

Hot and dry conditions favor wine estates with clay soil, as they can produce wines with a heavy portion of Merlot that thrives on clay.  Gravelly soil, on which Cabernet Sauvignon usually thrives, tends to fare less well in hot and dry conditions.  The vines don't get enough hydration as the soil stays dry during the growing season, and drains water quickly even when occasional precipitation comes, which was rare in 2022 anyway.  As a result, vines in 2022 didn't grow as much as they normally would, yielding berries that are smaller.

Cheval Blanc, the Right Bank heavyweight, has a naturally endowed heavy portion of clay in its soil.  Still, watching

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