A Nearly Perfect Cheval Blanc

What makes a perfect wine?

To a large extent, it is up to the climate.  2022 was a hot and dry year in Bordeaux.  Old hands compare it to 2003 as 2003 is remembered as the first vintage with such climate conditions.  Like so much else, these two years were not identical, but they rhymed.

Hot and dry conditions favor wine estates with clay soil, as they can produce wines with a heavy portion of Merlot that thrives on clay.  Gravelly soil, on which Cabernet Sauvignon usually thrives, tends to fare less well in hot and dry conditions.  The vines don't get enough hydration as the soil stays dry during the growing season, and drains water quickly even when occasional precipitation comes, which was rare in 2022 anyway.  As a result, vines in 2022 didn't grow as much as they normally would, yielding berries that are smaller.

Cheval Blanc, the Right Bank heavyweight, has a naturally endowed heavy portion of clay in its soil.  Still, watching the grape grow in the hot and dry conditions led the estate manager to fret the harvesting decision.  Poorly chosen harvest date could result in over concentration of grapes, running the risk of less juice in smaller berries with thicker skins and heavier tannins.  Vigilant and close monitoring led to the decision to harvest early, such is the art of terroir, besides the climate and the soil, here is the input of human know-how and detailed knowledge of the whole environment.

Cheval Blanc's estate manager chose to begin harvesting Merlot on August 29, marking the earliest such harvesting in Cheval Blanc's history.  After Merlot was harvested in a week, just 10 days later, the harvesting of Cabernet Franc began and finished within a short window.  The freshness of Merlot, combined with the power and density of Cabernet Franc, results in a wine that retains freshness and is not over-concentrated.  The final blend was 53% Merlot, 46% of Cabernet Franc, and 1% of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The critics believe Cheval Blanc 2022 is potentially a perfect wine.  Jane Anson of Inside Bordeaux called it a potential 100-point wine.  Lisa Perrotti-Brown, formerly of the Wine Advocate, rates it 98-100 points.  Other wine reviewers seem to agree.

The wine was released in Bordeaux earlier today.  It is our pleasure to present a potentially perfect Cheval Blanc.  The smaller yield of 2022 means repeat customers will receive their allocations first.  Secure yours while supplies last.

"One of the stars of the vintage is the striking 2022 Cheval Blanc, a blend of 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon that bursts from the glass with aromas of mulberries, cherries and wild berries mingled with mint, orange zest, pencil lead, vine smoke and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's rich and gourmand, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, pungently perfumed finish. Harvest began on 29 August, with all the Merlot picked before the month was out, and the result is a wine that is as vibrant as it is lavish." - William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (4/28/23) Ratings: (97-99)+

"Kicks off with an explosive nose of freshly crushed red roses, liqourice root and smoked sandalwood. The exuberance of the vintage means that this is a Cheval that feels more approachable at this stage than many years, but no less complex. Blueberry, raspberry and cassis fruits, along with ink, soot, baked earth, incense and saffran, closing to mouthwatering lime and mandarin zest that add juice and length on the finish. Just a great wine from director Pierre Olivier Clouet and the team. 100% new oak barrels for ageing. Harvest began on August 29 (earliest ever, with 80% of Merlot bought in by the end of August), then Cabernet Franc in by September 20. 3.86ph. No Petit Cheval this year, but just 78% of production in the 1st wine. And this is the first year where Cheval Blanc is just a simple, lowly AOC St Emilion, after its withdrawal from the classification. A potential 100 points." - Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (4/25/23) Ratings: 98-100