Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2020

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a wine that harmonizes radiance, power, and depth.  This stunning expression of Pessac-Léognan terroir has a hefty amount of Cabernet Franc, which is unusual for the Left Bank.  The property is currently helmed by Patrice Pichet, who coveted the vineyards for many years.  After acquiring the property in 2010, he spared no expense in renovations as he wanted Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion to express the fullest potential of its terroir.  Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is, without a doubt, an extraordinary producer in its own class.

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion has a history that is inextricably linked with the Pessac-Léognan First Growth property, Château Haut-Brion.  Jean de Pontac of Haut-Brion gifted a water mill to a group of friars in the middle of what would later become the treasured vineyards of Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion.  The vineyard was named after a group of Carmelites who managed the estate from as early as 1584 until the French Revolution in 1789.  The property was purchased by the Léon Colin family in 1840.  It stayed with their descendants for generations until the estate was sold to Patrice Pichet in 2010.  Pichet heads up a successful real estate company in Bordeaux, Groupe Pichet.  The estate had a massive renovation of the château and winemaking facilities.  Architect Philippe Starck created a new barrel room featuring a gravity fed cellar that is designed to look like a boat floating over a body of water.  This impressive cellar is accessed by a series of bridges and was inspired by the idea that Bordeaux wines were first exported via ships. 

Though the property is a sprawling 29.6 hectares, only 7.6 of those vines are used to produce the grand vin of Château Les Carmes Haut Brion.  The property is planted with 41 percent Merlot, 39 percent Cabernet Franc and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.  The estate can be divided into 17 different parcels.  Cabernet Franc runs the show at this estate, and Château Les Carmes Haut Brion has some vines that are almost 90 years old.  The choicest parcels are located closest to the château, yet there are other parcels located near Château Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut Brion.  The grapes are whole berry vinified and the entire winemaking process is all about gentle extractions to preserve subtle freshness.  Because of this, the grand vin is exceedingly soft with an almost oceanic mineral characteristic to the wine.  The wine is vinified in a combination of stainless steel, wood and cement fermenters which provide the grand vin a variety of different characteristics and complexity.  The viticultural team at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is never afraid to experiment with newer techniques and recently a small portion of Château Les Carmes Haut Brion has been vinified in clay amphorae.  Without a doubt, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion is one of the more unique producers in the Left Bank, perfect for oenophiles looking for a truly different expression of Pessac-Léognan terroir.

"Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion issues forth a beguiling array of savory scents—black olives, charcuterie, bouquet garni and Sichuan pepper—over a core of bright redcurrant jelly, black cherries and cassis scents, plus fragrant hints of rose petals and preserved mandarin peel. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing and elegantly styled yet with a rock-solid backbone of firm, finely grained tannins and bags of freshness, finishing long and perfumed. This is a stunning expression of the vintage that should be long lived and age with fantastic grace." - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate (5/20/2021), Rating: 95-97, Drink: 2027-2057

"From a bottle purchased stateside, the 2020 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a riviting, utterly classic Pessac-Leognan that offers textbook darker currant fruits, scorched earth, tobacco, lead pencil, and smoky, truffly nuances, as well as a subtle floral hint with time in the glass. Based on 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Merlot that saw a plenty of stems as well as 80% new oak, it's deep plum/ruby hued, has medium to full-bodied richness, a graceful, layered, elegant mouthfeel, polished, fine grained tannins, and a gorgeous finish. It's more approachable today than I would have imagined from barrel, and it actually reminds me of the 2019 with its understated elegance. It deserves a solid 7-8 years of bottle age and will be a 30, 40, 50+ year wine. It's another heavenly wine from Guillaume Pouthier that you probably couldn't have too much of in the cellar." Jeb Dunnuck, Up From The Cellar No. 22 & Misc New Releases (10/24/2023), Rating: 98 Drink: 2030-2080

''The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, red fruits, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's intensely flavored but weightless, with a compelling sense of harmony and a long, orange-inflected finish. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, it was vinified with some 65% whole bunch and attained 13.5% alcohol. This is the first vintage where Pouthier's methods (whole bunch with weighted cap and long élevage incorporating larger vessels) were applied writ large, and the results are striking.'' William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (04/06/2023) Ratings: 97 Drink: 2025-2055