Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2023

At Laguna Cellar, we try not to pick favorites.  But sometimes a producer is just so special that we can’t help but be a little partial to them.  This is very much the case for Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. This St-Julien Second Growth is simply superb.  Robert Parker Jr describes the wines from this “Super Second” in his tome on Bordeaux to be the perfect essence of “elegance, symmetry, balance, breed, class and distinction.” If a reclassification were ever to be in the cards, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou would surely have a shot at First Growth status.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou has a long history that dates back to the 13th Century.  It received its namesake when Bertrand Ducru purchased the estate back in 1795.  The Château was loved by politicians and noblemen alike. Bertrand Ducru’s daughter married the speaker for the French Parliament, and the story goes that he switched the politician’s customary glass of water for a glass of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou.  

The property had a sterling reputation from being classified as a Second Growth in 1855 and was sold in 1866 to Lucie Caroline Dassier for one million francs.  Dassier was the wife of the famous negociant Nathaniel Johnston. Johnston performed numerous experiments at Château Ducru-Beaucaillou to protect the vines from various rots and diseases. He developed the first solution for mildew by creating what is now called, “Bordeaux Soup.” This concoction is a mixture of lime milk and copper sulfite used to cure the vines of mildew.  It is still used to protect against mildew today.  

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is unique in so many aspects.  One of which is that it receives part of its namesake from the terroir that is specific to this estate.  The estate’s signature Gunz gravel reflects the sun’s rays and offers the perfect drainage for the 50 hectares Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines. The name, “Beaux Cailloux,” loosely translates to, “beautiful stones.” The winemaking team firmly believes these special pebbles do all the work on the estate in transforming their precious grapes into astounding, mineral-driven wines with tremendous ageing potential.  Guests to the chateau are sometimes given a token of souvenir in the form of a velvet-boxed pebble from the land around the estate.

One cannot talk about Château Ducru-Beaucaillou without mentioning the current owner, Bruno Borie.  Borie is a legendary figure in the Bordeaux Wine Community, and brings his passion, knowledge, and perfectionism to Château Ducru-Beaucaillou.  Borie made many contributions to the Wine and Spirits world, including revitalizing the image of the popular brand Lillet by making sure it was featured in the James Bond movie Quantum of Solace. This likable and happy man made many major contributions to the estate, but the most notable one was ridding it of its TCA - cork taint - problem in the 1980s and 1990s.  Bruno made sure that the older vintages were recorked, and all the contaminated corks were destroyed.  

The wines from Château Ducru-Beaucaillou differ from some of the brawnier wines St-Julien has to offer.  They develop very slowly over time but are definitely worth the wait, as the results are a stunning harmony of fruit and power. 

"Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Smells fragrant and lifted, a combination of sweet and ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, but rich too, there’s depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture - grippy and filling no doubt, it coats the mouth with a crushed velvet texture, you feel the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally it’s not too lean, not strict at all, where many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let up. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Feels well crafted. Maybe not as immediately moreish as some, but this is really well made. Feels elegant and stylish.7pH. 89 IPT. Ageing 18 months, 100% new oak. 12% press." - Georgina Hindle, Decanter, (05/07/2024), Ratings: 97

"As to the Grand Vin, the 2023 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou brings everything up a level, offering a gorgeous perfume of crème de cassis, spring flowers, graphite, and crushed stone. This gives way to a medium to full-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant Ducru that has ample mid-palate depth, building tannins, and a great spine of acidity. It’s another gorgeous wine from this chateau that plays in the style of the 2010, 2016, and 2020. The 2023 is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, again in new barrels, and it hit 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.7, and an IPT of 89. It will have 50+ years of longevity." - Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur, (5/8/2024), Ratings: 95-97

"The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a heady, sumptuous Saint-Julien. The aromatics alone are captivating. Truffle, rose petal, blood orange, pomegranate, spice and menthol build in a creamy, lavish Ducru. The 2023 is a classic Bruno Borie wine that emphasizes textural opulence. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous floral and spice-driven top notes. The balance of opulence and vibrancy is compelling." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, (04/30/2024), Ratings: 95-97, Drink: 2033-2063

"Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline mouthwatering finish. 41hl/h yield, 100% new oak, with long seasoning of up to five years, nine different coopers." - Jane Anson, (05/06/2024), Ratings: 96

"The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 100% new oak for a planned 18 months, has a less forceful bouquet than the 2022 last year and, consequently, shows more refinement and poise. The scents don't come barging out of the blocks, but they creep up on you. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry. Showing moderate depth, it’s quite linear in style and grippy. A faint touch of bell pepper emerges on the classically styled finish that reminds me of some of the old vintages of Ducru-Beaucaillou. This is the strictest vintage I have encountered in some time." - Neal Martin, Vinous, (04/29/2024), Ratings: 94-96, Drink: 2030-2065