Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2021

At Laguna Cellar, we try not to pick favorites.  But sometimes a producer is just so special that we can’t help but be a little partial to them.  This is very much the case for Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. This St-Julien Second Growth is simply superb.  Robert Parker Jr describes the wines from this “Super Second” in his tome on Bordeaux to be the perfect essence of “elegance, symmetry, balance, breed, class and distinction.” If a reclassification were ever to be in the cards, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou would surely have a shot at First Growth status.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou has a long history that dates back to the 13th Century.  It received its namesake when Bertrand Ducru purchased the estate back in 1795.  The Château was loved by politicians and noblemen alike. Bertrand Ducru’s daughter married the speaker for the French Parliament, and the story goes that he switched the politician’s customary glass of water for a glass of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou.  

The property had a sterling reputation from being classified as a Second Growth in 1855 and was sold in 1866 to Lucie Caroline Dassier for one million francs.  Dassier was the wife of the famous negociant Nathaniel Johnston. Johnston performed numerous experiments at Château Ducru-Beaucaillou to protect the vines from various rots and diseases. He developed the first solution for mildew by creating what is now called, “Bordeaux Soup.” This concoction is a mixture of lime milk and copper sulfite used to cure the vines of mildew.  It is still used to protect against mildew today.  

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is unique in so many aspects.  One of which is that it receives part of its namesake from the terroir that is specific to this estate.  The estate’s signature Gunz gravel reflects the sun’s rays and offers the perfect drainage for the 50 hectares Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines. The name, “Beaux Cailloux,” loosely translates to, “beautiful stones.” The winemaking team firmly believes these special pebbles do all the work on the estate in transforming their precious grapes into astounding, mineral-driven wines with tremendous ageing potential.  Guests to the chateau are sometimes given a token of souvenir in the form of a velvet-boxed pebble from the land around the estate.

One cannot talk about Château Ducru-Beaucaillou without mentioning the current owner, Bruno Borie.  Borie is a legendary figure in the Bordeaux Wine Community, and brings his passion, knowledge, and perfectionism to Château Ducru-Beaucaillou.  Borie made many contributions to the Wine and Spirits world, including revitalizing the image of the popular brand Lillet by making sure it was featured in the James Bond movie Quantum of Solace. This likable and happy man made many major contributions to the estate, but the most notable one was ridding it of its TCA - cork taint - problem in the 1980s and 1990s.  Bruno made sure that the older vintages were recorked, and all the contaminated corks were destroyed.  

The wines from Château Ducru-Beaucaillou differ from some of the brawnier wines St-Julien has to offer.  They develop very slowly over time but are definitely worth the wait, as the results are a stunning harmony of fruit and power. 

"The 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou captures all the potential it showed from barrel. A delicate, understated wine, the 2021 impresses above all else with its finesse. All the elements are impeccably balanced throughout. Time in the glass brings out the wine's inner sweetness and gorgeous perfume. The balance with oak, at times a challenge here, is also flawless. With lower alcohol and therefore also less extraction from oak than recent vintages, the 2021 is shaping up to be a modern-day classic. The blend is 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, the highest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever here. What a wine." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, (02/28/2024), Ratings: 98

"Still in barrel at the time of tasting (bottling due in August 2023), showing a seductive smoked cedar, soot and campfire chararater, layers of sculpted dark fruits, and rose petal aromatics, this is well structured, softens in the mid palate to reveal creamy blackberry and raspberry fruit, with savoury salted cracker. Unquestionably one of the wines to go to within a challenging vintage, really stands out. Harvest September 23 to October 11. 100% new oak. A tiny crop, below 20hl/h, which accounts for the high percentage of Cabernet. Emmanuel Bonneau technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, (04/23/2023), Ratings: 96, Drink: 2027-2044

"The 2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of the top wines of the vintage. It’s based on 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, harvested from September 21 to October 10, that was vinified in wooden tronconique tanks and brought up all in new barrels. It has a deep ruby/plum hue to go with classic Ducru notes of pure crème de cassis, graphite, crushed stone, and violets, with a kiss of background tobacco and spicy oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep, rich, and concentrated, it has a beautiful mid-palate, ripe, building tannins, and a gorgeous finish. Checking in as 12.5% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.88, hats off to the genius of Bruno Borie and his team for producing a truly Grand Vin in this challenging vintage." Jeb Dunnuck, (04/03/2024), Ratings: 96, Drink: 2029-2049

"Beautiful and beguiling nose, perfumed blackcurrants and dark fruits; damsons, plums, raspberries and rose petals. Lovely crunchy fruit, real bite and presence in the mouth. Excellent precision, tannins are succulent and ripe they fill the mouth with a juicy, intense granular texture. There is such depth to this - perfume, tobacco, earth, violets and concentrated fruits that have a verticality to them with an unprecedented 98% of Cabernet Sauvignon providing the support and the backbone. There is a crystalline purity to the fruit giving tension to the overall frame, it’s focussed and driven all with excellent definition. This is not a wallflower of a wine - it’s charming and confident, strutting its stuff right now and giving you absolut St-Julien terroir and vintage markers in the glass with slate, graphite and liquorice salinity on show. Skilled winemaking on show." - Georgina Hindle, Decanter, (04/01/2022), Ratings: 96