Carruades de Lafite 2009

Clos du Clocher is a hidden gem in Pomerol.  It was first acquired in 1924 by Jean Baptiste Audy, a negociant in nearby Libourne.  In the decades that followed, the Audy family added more plots of land to their holdings.  The estate is currently managed by Jean Baptiste Audy’s descendant, Jean Baptiste Bourotte.

Pomerol is a tight-knit and compact village on the Right Bank.  The namesake appellation is the smallest in Bordeaux.  Unlike other appellations, there has been little chance for extension or expansion in Pomerol.  That is partly to explain why Pomerol produces some of Bordeaux’s most expensive wine (Pétrus, Le Pin, to name two).  It has a minuscule 800 hectares and 135 growers.  The village does not have a traditional center, nor any magnificent chateaux.  The only landmark is the church on the plateau.  Hence many estates in Pomerol are named with references to eglise (the church) and clocher (the bell tower).  Paradoxically, Pomerol produces some of Bordeaux's most expensive wine.

The highest quality plots are on the Pomerol plateau, a largely flat area 35-37 metres high in altitude.  The owner of Petrus, Moueix family, defines any land above 30 metres as “high plateau”, which is the most sought-after plots in Pomerol.  That is where Clos du Clocher’s largest plot is found.  It is located by the church, which is the center of the prime plateau of Pomerol.  Neighboring estates include Hosanna, Vieux Chateau Certan.  Clos du Clocher’s other sizeable land holding is located next to Château Trotanoy.

Blue clay, the prized soil known for its iron rich quality, is found on Clos du Clocher’s land.  It defines its terroir that is home to early ripening Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.  The majority of their vines are on average 25 years old, with some oldest vines 60 years old, dating back to 1957.  Everything is harvested by hand, and there is a very rigorous selection process.

Many Pomerol wines are made from early ripening merlot and approachable when young, Clos du Clocher almost always has 25% of Cabernet Franc in its wine, which requires more ageing in bottle before it can fully develop.  The resulting wine can age for 20 years or longer.

Considering its overall quality and potential, we believe Clos du Clocher is a rare find among Pomerol that is still undervalued.  For collectors who want to let the wine age, we recommend these vintages: 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020.

''Of course, the wine to buy in order to get a look at the Lafite Rothschild style and personality is their second wine, Carruades de Lafite, which has become very fashionable in Asia, causing the prices to soar. A very strong effort, the 2009 Carruades de Lafite may be the finest Carruades since the 2003. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it reveals lots of sweet cassis intermixed with subtle smoke and forest floor, undeniable lusciousness and full-bodied hedonism. The wood component is pushed to the background, and the wine is extremely viscous, round and delicious. Additional complexity should continue to emerge over the next decade and this 2009 should keep for 20-30 years.'' Robert M. Parker, Jr., The Wine Advocate (12/22/2011) Ratings: 93 Drink: 2012-2042