Laguna Cellar Wine of the Month - October 2022

Chablis - Great Dry White With Mineral Notes

Mid-way between Beaune and Paris, the Chablis region stretches over around 20 communes. Nestled among the valleys and wooded hilltops, the vineyards cover the hillsides running alongside the pretty Serein Valley. The vines sink their roots deep into the clay-limestone soil, drawing on them for their characteristic mineral aromas, to the delight of Chablis drinkers.

Here, Chardonnay reigns supreme. It is used for all Chablis wines and has made them famous around the world. The most highly prized among them is Chablis Grand Cru, with its green-gold color and perfect balance between liveliness, dryness and acidity.  You will also appreciate Chablis Premier Cru wines. This appellation encompasses a wide range of aromas from the most mineral to the most floral.

Olivier Morin's family has been living on the same parcel of land since at least 1650 (the records do not go back any farther). He and his brother Christian have been working together since 1992. One quarter of the domaine is planted in Aligoté, one quarter in Pinot Noir, and the other half in Chardonnay.  While his Chablis is not ranked among Grand Cru or Premier Cru, it is a loverly wine for everyday enjoyment.

Côte de Nuits - Prestigious and Varied Appellations of Bourgogne

The reputation of the appellations of the Côte de Nuits is firmly established. Some have even gone so far as to name this exceptional terroir the Champs-Elysées of Bourgogne.  This sophisticated pseudonym also explains the reality of the terrain. Between Dijon and Corgoloin, the wines grow along a narrow strip of hillside that is around 20km long and in parts, just 200 meters wide.  The Grand Cru and Premier Cru of the Côte de Nuits appellation include famous names such as Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Vougeot, Échezeaux, Grands Échezeaux ,Richebourg, Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Chambolle Musigny, Bonnes Mares.  We present a perfect Côte de Nuits-Villages from Domain Gachot-Monot. The pretty nose smells fabulously of Pinot Noir. The palate has good, juicy flesh to it, and the tannin/acid balance.

Château Valandraud of Saint-Emilion

Château Valandraud is the home property of dynamic husband and wife duo, Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud.  Prior to becoming a vigneron Jean-Luc was a successful négociant.  In 1989, Jean-Luc and Murielle purchased a small 0.6 hectare plot close to Château Pavie Macquin.  They purchased an additional 1.2 hectares of vines a bit further east in Saint Sulpice.  The name, “Valandraud,” is an interesting one.  The “Val” portion comes from the location where the grapes are planted, a place called Vallon de Fongaban.  The latter portion of the name, “Andraud,” is the last name of Jean-Luc’s wife, Murielle.  Murielle is currently the gifted individual who makes all the wine for Château Valandraud and Jean-Luc runs the business and is the face of the operation.

From The Winemaker Who Loves Trees

Of the many families who operate wineries in Bordeaux, few seem to have the magic touch like the Thienponts.  The Thienponts cemented their reputation as vignerons after the fantastic success of the cult winery, Le Pin.  Le Pin rose to prominence after Jacques Thienpont purchased a virtually unknown estate in Pomerol.  The property was named after the large pine tree on the grounds, and after the inaugural vintage the success of the wine was unprecedented. Soon, the Thienponts began making wine in other parts of the Right Bank such as their Saint-Émilion estate, L’If.  In 2015, Jacques took notice of the up and coming Côtes de Castillon appellation and purchased what would later be known as L’Hêtre.  Fortunately for many a wine connoisseur both L’if and L’Hêtre have a much more user-friendly price tag.  L’Hêtre is an excellent wine that captures the distinctive terroir of this hidden gem of an appellation.

Château Valandraud 2014 - "Tasted blind at the Valandraud vertical at the property, the 2014 Valandraud is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc matured in 100% new oak for 24 months. It fulfils the great potential it showed from barrel. It offers plenty of fruit on the nose: blackberry and blueberry, very well defined and precise with neatly integrated oak. The palate has a caressing texture on the entry, great depth and purity with blueberry and black cherry notes, a hint of cassis developing towards the satin-textured, precise and almost crystalline finish. This is a beautifully crafted Saint Emilion destined to give a lot of pleasure over the years. Tasted December 2016." - Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, Rating: 94, Drink from: 2020-2045 

L'Hêtre 2016 - "The first release from the new property bought by Jacques Thienpont and his sister in 2016. It is perched on the end of the limestone plateau and has stunning views. Previously owned by and named after a Belgian family called Goubau. The 10 hectares of organically farmed vines are surrounded by woods and pastures. At 100 m on the St-Philippe d'Aiguilhe plateau, the highest point in Bordeaux. In 2017 they bought the adjoining property, Ch Montagne, with 25 ha, of which 6 ha are planted. Nephew Maxime Thienpont is the winemaker. The vineyards face south-east and are on the limestone plateau or on limestone, clay and chalk slopes. 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc fermented in concrete and oak vats and aged 15 months in French oak barrels, including one-third new." Tasting Note: "Very dark crimson, almost black at the core but bright at the rim. This smells richer, sweeter and more intense than the second wine La Raison d'Hêtre. Rich in blackcurrant fruit with a savoury dark glow to make it more than just fruit. Just a touch of smoky char even though the oak is well in the background, a seductive fruit sweetness. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced, the alcohol perfectly integrated in the tannic structure and fruit core with a fresh tang that runs through the middle. There's a cool fluidity to it even with its depth and length. Fine, dry, lingering and savoury aftertaste. Impressive first vintage with a promising future in the bottle. I opened this on a Sunday evening and it was still tasting fresh and vibrant four days later. This is a very classy wine, and the tannins tell you everything: fine, definite, building in the mouth but in perfect balance with the fruit and freshness. Blue-blooded Castillon. Catch it while you can. (JH)" - Julia Harding , Jancisrobinson.com, Rating: 17+, Drink: 2020-2030