L'Hetre 2016

Of the many families who operate wineries in Bordeaux, few seem to have the magic touch like the Thienponts.  The Thienponts cemented their reputation as vignerons after the fantastic success of the cult winery, Le Pin.  Le Pin rose to prominence after Jacques Thienpont purchased a virtually unknown estate in Pomerol.  The property was named after the large pine tree on the grounds, and after the inaugural vintage the success of the wine was unprecedented. Soon, the Thienponts began making wine in other parts of the Right Bank such as their Saint-Émilion estate, L’If.  In 2015, Jacques took notice of the up and coming Côtes de Castillon appellation and purchased what would later be known as L’Hêtre.  Fortunately for many a wine connoisseur both L’if and L’Hêtre have a much more user-friendly price tag.  L’Hêtre is an excellent wine that captures the distinctive terroir of this hidden gem of an appellation.

L’Hêtre was acquired by the Thienponts in 2015.  Prior to that, it was owned by a Belgian couple, Béa and Stéphan Goubau.  They named the ten-hectare property Château Goubau and were immediately captivated by the unique terroir.  They spent a significant period of their tenure converting the vineyards to organic viticulture.  This was a major accomplishment for the team, and the property was already in great shape when Jacques Thienpont and his sister Anne visited it during the harvest of 2015.  They were immediately captivated by the stunning views, the tree-lined drive, and the limestone terroir.  After acquiring the estate, they changed the name of the property to L’Hêtre after the beech tree to continue the arboreal theme of all the Thiepont properties.  The inaugural vintage of L’Hêtre was released in 2016 and received a warm critical reception.  In 2017, they purchased an additional 25-hectares near the estate to expand the vineyard holdings.  The wine continues to improve each year.

What makes L’Hêtre such a unique estate is the vineyard.  The signature terroir of the Côtes de Castillon adds a spiciness to the wine.  Côtes de Castillon was recognized as an appellation in 2008, when it achieved the Cotes de Bordeaux designation.  It is a premiere appellation for wine lovers and value hunters alike as dollar for dollar, the wines are a tremendous value.  For L’Hêtre, the plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Franc have great exposures with gentle breezes to protect them from excess humidity.  The vines are harvested and fermented in a mixture of concrete and oak.  The concrete is used to preserve freshness and oak is used to add a little bit of structure to the wine. The terroir is a limestone plateau with very good elevation and a great slope for drainage.  It is similar to the more publicized appellation of Saint-Émilion and L’Hêtre has vineyards that actually mirror some of the premier vineyards from the appellation.  The promise of the estate’s terroir coupled with the tremendous talents to the Thienpont family make L’Hêtre a must know wine for any oenophile who enjoys Right Bank Bordeaux. The excellence of this wine is undeniable, and entry-level enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike are sure to enjoy L'Hêtre. 

 "The first release from the new property bought by Jacques Thienpont and his sister in 2016. It is perched on the end of the limestone plateau and has stunning views. Previously owned by and named after a Belgian family called Goubau. The 10 hectares of organically farmed vines are surrounded by woods and pastures. At 100 m on the St-Philippe d'Aiguilhe plateau, the highest point in Bordeaux. In 2017 they bought the adjoining property, Ch Montagne, with 25 ha, of which 6 ha are planted. Nephew Maxime Thienpont is the winemaker. The vineyards face south-east and are on the limestone plateau or on limestone, clay and chalk slopes. 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc fermented in concrete and oak vats and aged 15 months in French oak barrels, including one-third new." Tasting Note: "Very dark crimson, almost black at the core but bright at the rim. This smells richer, sweeter and more intense than the second wine La Raison d'Hêtre. Rich in blackcurrant fruit with a savoury dark glow to make it more than just fruit. Just a touch of smoky char even though the oak is well in the background, a seductive fruit sweetness. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced, the alcohol perfectly integrated in the tannic structure and fruit core with a fresh tang that runs through the middle. There's a cool fluidity to it even with its depth and length. Fine, dry, lingering and savoury aftertaste. Impressive first vintage with a promising future in the bottle. I opened this on a Sunday evening and it was still tasting fresh and vibrant four days later. This is a very classy wine, and the tannins tell you everything: fine, definite, building in the mouth but in perfect balance with the fruit and freshness. Blue-blooded Castillon. Catch it while you can. (JH)" - Julia Harding , Jancisrobinson.com, Rating: 17+, Drink: 2020-2030