Château Duhart-Milon 2023

Château Duhart-Milon is the only Fourth Growth property in the Pauillac AOC.  It is an estate that lovers of the First Growth, Château Lafite Rothschild, should know.  Not only is it a mere 7-minute drive away from Château Lafite Rothschild, but the two are considered sister properties with the same winemaking team.  Like Lafite, the estate is owned by Domains de Barons de Rothschild.  Château Duhart-Milon is home to some truly phenomenal terroir of gravel, limestone, and clay.  When asked why he purchased the property, the Baron put it plainly: “It would have been nonsense not to acquire such a great neighboring vineyard.”

Château Duhart-Milon has a very interesting and circuitous history.  The property was initially the Second Wine for Lafite Rothschild when the Marquis de Alexandre Segur, or “The Wine Prince,” was running Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Calon Segur.  The Marquis saw the potential of Château Duhart-Milon, and in the 19th Century, the wines were already held in great esteem.  It was considered a cru vineyard in the making.  Château Duhart-Milon received part of its name from Sir Duhart, who was rumored to have been a pirate and gunrunner for King Louis XV.  When he was done pillaging the high seas, he decided to retire in Pauillac in a little dwelling that was near the port. The dwelling was called the “pirate’s house” and was eventually torn down in the 1950s.  Yet the building’s legacy lives on – it’s on the label for the grand vin of Château Duhart-Milon.   

Château Duhart-Milon was classified as a Fourth Growth in 1855, and then it was owned by the Castéja family.  The Castéja family was very well known throughout Bordeaux, and they currently oversee the illustrious Château Trotte Vielle.  Right before World War II, disaster seemed to stalk Château Duhart-Milon.  Frosts ravaged its vineyards. It changed hands at least five times during the 1950s and 1960s, and out of the massive 110 hectares of land, only 17 hectares were left planted with vines by the time Baron Eric de Rothschild acquired the estate. The Rothschilds almost doubled the size of the vineyards at the property, restoring the Fourth Growth to its former glory. 

Château Duhart-Milon is a rare estate because it is one of the few properties in Pauillac without an actual château.  Instead, it hosts vat rooms, barrel storage, and, of course, the stars of the show – the vines.  The vineyards are planted with 76 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; the vines are about 30 years old on average. Like its sister estate, Lafite, the same cooperage makes the barrels on the property.  Charles Chevalier is the director of winemaking, and each plot at Château Duhart-Milon is isolated and judged separately based on quality.  The grapes are harvested and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats.  The wines of Château Duhart-Milon are powerful, like many Pauillacs.  They require a bit of time for their aromas to unfold, and younger vintages can be decanted if need be.  

A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (picked late, between September 25 and October 3) and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Duhart-Milon has turned out beautifully, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries and dark berries mingled with hints of mint, cedar and spice box. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an ample core of cool but ripe fruit, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish.

"Inky plum, far deeper in texture and intensity than the Moulin de Duhart (in contrast to 2022, when both 1st and 2nd wines were intensely coloured). Classical Duhart on the attack, reserved and a little subdued, then in comes the waves of cassis, liqourice root, spiced plum, ink, tobacco and cigar box. High Cabernet in the blend, and it suits the style and character of Duhart. Has a ton of ageing potential, classical styled with precision, fully showcasing the enjoyment of 2023 in the right spots. Around 65% first wine, 45hl/h yield, 15% of press wine. Harvest September 7 to October 3. A buy." - Jane Anson, (05/06/2024), Ratings: 95

"The 2023 Duhart-Milon was picked September 7 to October 3 and contains 15% pressed wine, matured in 50% new oak. It has a much more backward bouquet than the Moulin, displaying well-defined yet tightly coiled graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that belie the backbone of this Pauillac. That graphite element is accentuated in the mouth and controls the classic finish that could only come from this appellation. This is excellent, but patience is required." - Neal Martin, Vinous, (04/29/2024), Ratings: 93-95

"As I've written before, Duhart-Milon's vineyards are later-maturing than Lafite's, and the soils are less inherently balanced: The clay-rich parts of the vineyard are richer in clay than at Lafite, and the gravel-rich parts of the vineyard are richer in gravel, whereas Lafite's predominantly gravel soils sometimes contain more than 10% clay. That explains why Duhart-Milon historically often produced leaner wines than Lafite, with less mid-palate amplitude; but a warming climate and more attention to viticultural detail (sowing cover crops, for example, in clay-rich parts of the vineyard) are mitigating these disadvantages, and recent vintages have seen this estate attain new qualitative heights. As at all the Domaines Barons de Rothschild properties, winemaking and élevage are very classical, with regular rackings, and the majority of the barriques are derived from the in-house cooperage (emphasizing lightly toasted Allier and Nevers oak seasoned for 24 months); and as at Lafite, Cabernet is very much in the ascendant here.'' - William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, (04/26/2024), Ratings: 92-94 

"The 2023 Château Duhart-Milon is much more Cabernet-dominated and has cassis, graphite, and sappy, floral, and lead pencil notes as well as medium-bodied richness. It's pure and has terrific overall balance, a notable sense of freshness (pH is 3.8), and building tannins." - Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur, (05/08/2024), Ratings: 92-94