Saintayme 2020

Saintayme is one of the hidden values of Bordeaux.  This extraordinary wine from Saint-Émilion was lovingly crafted by one of the master vignerons of the Right Bank, Denis Durantou.  Denis Durantou prematurely passed away in 2020, after a long fight with cancer.  It was a tremendous loss deeply felt by the wine world.  He was a true “winemaker’s winemaker,” and had shrewd observations about Bordeaux.  He brought his extraordinary talents both to the vineyard and the vat room and specialized in crafting exquisite and multidimensional expressions of Merlot.  But perhaps the most refreshing part about Denis Durantou was his humility and stubborn desire to keep the pricing of his wines fair.  In a region home to the most exorbitantly priced wines in the world, this sense of authenticity was truly refreshing and admired by all who knew him.

Saintayme was purchased by Denis Durantou in 1985.  The wine is named Saintayme after the nickname for the Saint-Émilion appellation.  This Saint-Émilion Grand Cru property is a part of a 9 hectare vineyard planted with almost 100% Merlot and a small portion of Cabernet Franc.  Denis Durantou always had a keen understanding of Merlot and was able to work well with this often mishandled varietal.  The property is located within the up and coming Saint Etienne de Lisse commune where the climate is significantly cooler from the rest of the region.  The terroir here is limestone, clay and gravel – very similar to some of the top vineyards in Saint-Émilion.  With prestigious neighbors such as Château Valandraud and Château Fleur Cardinale, Saintayme is home to some terroir whose potential knows no bounds.  The same technical team that makes the wine of Denis Durantou’s flagship property, L’Eglise Clinet, diligently tends to the vines at Saintayme and crafts the wine at this estate.  For those unfamiliar with L’Eglise Clinet, the estate is one of the jewels of Pomerol, with grand vin that is comparable in quality to the giants within the appellation.  In the true spirit of the Durantou family, the wine is humbly priced, making it a true insider’s wine.   

Denis Durantou owns other properties within the Right Bank, such as Château Les Cruzelles within the Lalande de Pomerol appellation and Château Montlandrie within the Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux appellation.  Though the vines at Saintayme are not owned by the Durantou family and are on a long-term leasing agreement, the technical team puts plenty of effort in making sure the wine is of the highest quality.  The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats to preserve freshness and ensure there is better control of the yeasts and bacteria.  Saintayme is then aged in 30% new French oak for about 14 months.  Saintayme is a true Right Bank gem, with luscious black fruit qualities and plenty of floral aromas.  Scores have been on the rise for this hidden treasure of a property, culminating in the low 90s.  At the current price point, the wine overdelivers  and despite Denis’ passing, Saintayme is still a wonderful part of his legacy.

The 2020 Saintayme is 100% Merlot, harvested between the 28th and the 30th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.5% and is aging in French oak barrels, 30% new. Deep purple-black colored, it needs a little coaxing to unlock scents of tar, forest floor and aniseed, over a core of baked black plums, blackberry pie and chocolate-covered cherries, plus a touch of dried mint. The full-bodied palate is densely packed with muscular black fruits and loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on a lingering minty note. 63,000 bottles are expected to be made." - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate (5/20/2021), Ratings: 90-92, Drink: 2024-2038