Vieux Château Certan 2009 (Ex-Chateau)

Some of the most complex, elegant, and richly perfumed wine from Pomerol is made at Château Vieux Château Certan.   This property is, without a doubt, one of the crown jewels here and as a result it fetches a high price in today’s marketplace.  Château Vieux Château Certain hosts some of the best terroir as it sits on the Pomerol plateau.  It has its fair share of famous neighbors, such as Château Pétrus, and though critics such as Robert Parker Jr compare the two producers as equal in quality, they could not be more different in style.  Because of the higher percentages of Cabernet Franc, the wine of Château Vieux Château Certan is lengthy, profound, and some of the finest wine the region has to offer. 

Château Vieux Château Certan hosts one of the oldest histories in the entire region.  It dates to the 1700s where it was founded by Jean Demay de Certain who was well known for his work in the Bordeaux wine trade.  The original château was constructed closer to 1770 and after the French Revolution, the land was divided many times.  In early years, Château Vieux Château Certain was considered the best wine in Pomerol, yet shortly after World War II the estate diminished in popularity due to the meteoric rise of Château Pétrus.  As time passed, the estate was acquired by Georges Thienpont in 1924 and thus it began its spectacular rebound. 

You may have heard of the Thienpont name in association with another Pomerol giant – the iconic cult producer Le Pin, which is run by Georges Theinpont’s grandson, Jacques Theinpont.  The Theinponts have a rich legacy within the wine trade and more specifically with some of the top estates in the Right Bank, such as Troplong Mondot in Saint-Émilion they once owned.  There is a common philosophy within the Thienpont family, which is that great winemaking is about as little intervention as possible.  They are a true family of vignerons who believe most of the work is done in the vineyard.  Guillaume Theinpont currently runs Château Vieux Château Certan and the property is without a doubt the pride and joy of the Thienpont family. 

Château Vieux Château Certan has some of the oldest vines in Pomerol, more specifically Merlot vines that date back to 1932.  Here, varietals like Merlot and Cabernet Franc are all planted in a single block and the soil mostly consists of rich clay with gravel deposits.  The Merlot thrives in this deep clay that helps the vines absorb the water and nutrients they need.  The wine is vinified using minimal intervention in oak vats, resulting in full bodied wines that are effortless to drink at the same time.  It is incredibly age worthy and offers chocolate aromas with rich blackberry and plum.  Though Château Vieux Château Certan produces consistent wine that is a true knockout in terms of quality, the ratio of Cabernet Franc switches depending on the vintages. Because of this, Château Vieux Château Certan is a fun producer to follow throughout the years – as no two vintages are truly alike in personality.

"The 2009's nearly 14% natural alcohol, exquisite ripeness, and incredible complex bouquet of Asian spices, fruitcake, licorice, smoke, blackberries and black currants are to die for. A blend of 84% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a viscous texture as well as a freshness and vibrancy that are remarkable given the wine’s weight, richness and potential massiveness. This extraordinary effort is one of the finest Vieux Chateau Certans made over the last sixty years. It will undoubtedly shut down in bottle, requiring a decade or more of cellaring. It should keep for 50 years thereafter. Proprietor Thienpont thinks it is a modern day version of the 1948.

As I wrote in my barrel tasting notes, the 2009 ranks alongside four of the legendary vintages of Vieux Chateau Certan’s ancient past, 1945, 1947, 1948 and 1950. It is undoubtedly a cleaner wine than those older vintages, and the selection process under proprietor Alexandre Thienpont was far more severe in 2009 than it would have been sixty years ago." - Robert Parker Jr, The Wine Advocate, (12/22/2011, Issue 199), Rating: 99, Drink: 2022-2072