L'If 2023

L’if is yet another cult wine produced by Jaques Thienpont.  If the name rings a bell, that’s because it is associated with one of the most sought-after wines on the Right Bank – Le Pin.  The Thienponts have a profound respect for nature, especially trees, and have fittingly named all their properties after them.  Le Pin was named after the single, solitary pine tree growing in a place of prominence on the Pomerol property.  Their Castillon property L’Hêtre was named after the beech tree, and the small Saint-Émilion estate L’if takes its name from the Yew tree.  Yew trees are symbolically associated with regeneration.  It is the perfect symbol associated with the life-cycle of the vine – always changing, always growing, and getting stronger with age.

L’if is a fairly young estate and is still a considered by the Thienpont family to be a “work in progress.”  Given the high scores, it is clear the Thienponts are an exceptionally humble sort.  The estate was purchased in 2010 by Jaques Thienpont, who gave it the name L’if.  Like many of the Thienpont properties, L’if was a small plot situated on the Saint-Émilion plateau called Château Le Haut-Plantey.  It was just .5 hectares of vines.  Since then, the Thienponts have expanded the holdings of this estate steadily over time to 8 hectares.  The Thienponts are a powerful family in the Right Bank.  It is no small feat that the three properties they run – Le Pin, L’Hêtre and L’if have all achieved cult status, with Le Pin retailing for several thousands of dollars a bottle.  Fortunately, L’if and L’Hêtre both share a more accessible price tag, allowing oenophiles to discover the impressive winemaking skills of the Thienponts.  The estate is presently managed by Cyrille Thienpont – Jacques Thienpont’s cousin. 

The property is planted with 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc.  These vines thrive in the nutrient dense chalky limestone and clay soils.  The property has some excellent neighbors, like the estates Troplong Mondot and La Mondotte. When the estate was purchased in 2010, an extensive soil study was done to see which varietals and cover crops thrived in certain plots.  Cabernet Sauvignon was initially planted there, but the majority of it was removed because the soil was more compatible with Cabernet Franc.  The Thienponts are hoping to add more Cabernet Franc vines to the property in the future and steadily ramp up production at the estate.  The wine is vinified in stainless steel, and the wines are aged in 50% new French oak barrels.

L’if is an incredibly beguiling and stylish Saint-Émilion, with tremendous ageing potential.  During good vintages, the wine can age for 10 – 15 years.  Production at L’if is small, at under 1,000 cases per year, making this wine hard to find and cementing its cult status.  As the Thienponts continue to plant this fledgling vineyard, production will increase with time.  Till then, this gem of a wine is well worth the purchase – especially for those who appreciate the know-how of the Thienpont family. 

"Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 L'If sashays out of the glass with flamboyant notes of kirsch, juicy plums, and mulberries followed by hints of rosebud tea, underbrush, dark chocolate, and aniseed. The medium to full-bodied palate is coated with red and black berry flavors, framed by firm fine-grained tannins and fantastic tension, finishing long and fragrant. This is beautiful! The blend is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc" - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Independent, Ratings: 94-96

"The 2023 L’If is unusually floral and refined for a wine that has, in the past, been darker and more ample in structure. Cedar, tobacco, crushed flowers and mint add lift and aromatic presence. Silky tannins create an impression of finesse. The 2023 represents the first year of vinification in the new cellar outfitted with cement vats. Overall, though, this wine feels like a new chapter for L'If. The vibrancy and energy here are palpable. Tasted two times" - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, (04/30/2024), Ratings: 94-96

"Vibrancy and luscious fruit, there is juice here but it feels sinewy, bound up in the structure and tannins, has a feeling of energy, salinity, it's mouthwatering and determined to make you smile. 50% new oak, harvest September 18 to October 2. First year with the new cellar, 40hl/h yield, no mildew issues here, 50% new oak for ageing. 3.37ph," - Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, (04/22/2024), Ratings: 93, Drink: 2027-2037

"The 2023 L'If, crafted by Cyrille Thiepont and originating from vines owned by Jacques Thienpont, unveils a dark bouquet of licorice, dark wild berries, pencil lead, coniferous forest, spices and oak. Medium to full-bodied, creamy and unctuous, it’s rich and concentrated with a fleshy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins, culminating in a long, mineral, chalky finish. This is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc." - Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate, (04/26/2024), Ratings: 93-95, Drink: 2025-2045 

"Coming from vines near Troplong Mondot and based on 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 L'If will spend 12-16 months in 50% new French oak, and it's the first vintage made in the new cellar. Ripe black cherry and juicy blackberry fruit as well as ample floral and chalky minerality all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a lively, incredibly elegant mouthfeel, and outstanding length. It's another terrific wine from the talented Cyril Thienpont. The 2023 hit 14.1% alcohol with a pH of 3.37." - Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur, (05/13/2024), Ratings: 92-94