Château Lagrange 2020

The story of Château Lagrange is all about second chances.  The famed Third Growth property has a comeback story that rivals the tremendous resurgence tale of Château Margaux. Interestingly enough, this Saint-Julien estate has quite a bit in common with the Margaux First Growth.   Both properties had promising origins and  phenomenal terroir, but had their fortunes fall over the years.  That being said, both Château Lagrange and Château Margaux were resurrected from the depths by families and companies that were fully committed to producing some of the highest quality wines on the market.  In the case of Château Lagrange, it was the Suntory company that brought the estate to staggering new heights.   Many of the wines from Château Lagrange are considered a phenomenal value, and savvy wine buyers should not miss adding the fine offerings from this estate to their collection.   

Château Lagrange had fairly humble beginnings.  Reports of the vineyards originated in 1631, and eventually the property was acquired by the Baron de Brane in the 1700s.  The Baron had multiple properties and it was very clear he had an eye for exceptional terroir.  He owned Château Brane Cantenac, and Château Brane Mouton, a property that is known as the incomparable Château Mouton Rothschild today.  The estate rose to prominence when it was acquired by Count Duchatel who added a drainage system to the vineyard. Though this may not seem like an incredibly novel concept, in the 1800s it was revolutionary.  Eventually, Château Lagrange was classified in 1855 as a Third Growth estate.  The estate declined in quality and changed hands multiple times. Some of the choicest parcels were sold off to other châteaux such as the Super Second darling, Château Ducru Beaucaillou and Château Gloria.  In 1983, Château Lagrange was purchased by the large Japanese distillery Suntory (known for its top-quality beer and out-of-supply cult whisky, Yamazaki) and that’s when the incredible transformation really began.

Suntory spared no expense in revitalizing the once defunct château.  They modernized the winemaking facilities and took on the massive undertaking of replanting the vineyards.  Under the direction of Marcel Ducasse, whose reign at Château Lagrange encompassed 1993 to 2007, the vineyards expanded from 48 to 138 hectares.  Château Lagrange is planted with 35-year-old vines on average that mostly consist of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot.  Interestingly enough, Château Lagrange also has some white varietals planted on the estate as well.  One can find plantings of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon Gris planted on the gravely soil.   

The enthusiastic winemaker, Kenji Suzuta, oversees the viticultural process and crafts energetic and stunning wines.  Château Lagrange yields about 60,000 cases of its wine on a yearly basis.  These wines are incredibly powerful and tannic in their youth, requiring some time to age in bottle.  After about 8-10 years or so, they soften and reveal their aromas of black currant, cedar, and a distinctive herbal quality.  The quality of Château Lagrange continues to improve with each passing vintage, yet the prices still remain affordable, proving offerings from the estate are worthy additions to any cellar. 

"Deep purple-black in color, the 2020 Lagrange leaps from the glass with vibrant notes of redcurrant jelly, ripe blackcurrants and minted blackberries, followed by nuances of dark chocolate, star anise and mossy tree bark. The medium-bodied palate is both super intense and super elegant, featuring exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness to frame the bright, crunchy black and red fruits, finishing long and mineral laced." Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate May 2021 Week 3 (05/20/2021) Rating: 94-96 Drink: 2025-2050

"A wine that excels in the appellation, the 2020 Château Lagrange has a slightly modern vibe, with plenty of oak, yet still brings classic Bordeaux tobacco, lead pencil, and earthy minerality as well as pure cassis fruits. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, and just about seamless, it’s going to require 5-6 years of bottle age but should cruise for 20-25 years in cold cellars." Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2020: En Primeur-- Part 1 Rating: 94-96 

"The 2020 Lagrange has a sensual, beautifully defined bouquet of mineral-infused black fruit, briar, touches of wild mint and crushed stone, conveying wonderful energy and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tensile and focused, delivering plenty of energy and an almost steely but persistent finish. This is a classy Lagrange from winemaker Matthieu Bordes and his team. I always feel this Saint-Julien is underrated, but it will challenge the best 2020s from the appellation." Neal Martin, Vinous, (May 2021) Rating: 93-95 Drink: 2028-2050

"A perky, bright and enjoyable Lagrange, showing some angularity and austerity to the tannins but at the same time it is bright with clarity of direction, firm and concentrated fruits and juicy on the finish. A little subdued, but this is a quality Lagrange with extremely carefully placed fine tannins and fruit - it shows the essence of St-Julien balance, and one that will not need the full 10 years to come around. 50% less volume than usual. Tasted twice." Jane Anson, Decanter, Best Of Saint-Julien 2020 Wines En Primeur, (04/30/2021) Rating: 93