Château La Lagune 2020

The story of Château La Lagune is physical proof that sometimes the properties with the most potential in Bordeaux are underestimated.  A Third Growth Château fallen into complete disrepair, dismissed by many professionals in the wine industry, one day could become one of the better value wines in the Haut Médoc.  All it takes is a small group of people with a tremendous amount of passion, faith, and discipline to revitalize an estate and get things in order again.  

Château La Lagune is an extremely old property, with a history that dates back to the 16th Century, during the reign of King Henry IV.  The Dutch engineers drained the water from the marshes and swamps, which enabled people to start making wine in this area.  In 1715, the classically styled chateau was built by the great architect Baron Victor Louis who built the Grand Theatre in Bordeaux.  The property was owned by the de Seze family, who oversaw it for multiple generations.  In the 1950s, the estate was in total disrepair due to issues caused by World War II, the economic crisis, and frosts.  Of its 80-hectares, only 5 hectares were planted with vines.  It was in such poor condition, even seasoned veterans like Alexis Lichine scoffed at the impossible task of revitalizing Château La Lagune.  There was one man who stood up to the tall order – George Brunet, an entrepreneur.  He replanted the vineyard and constructed one of the most sophisticated wineries in the Médoc.  Brunet sold the property to the Ayala Champagne firm, who installed a revolutionary series of pipelines from the vats to the barrel-aging cellars that transport the wine without exposing it to air.

The property is presently run by the accomplished and impressive Caroline Frey from the Frey family.  Frey’s reputation precedes her due to her connections with the legendary estate of Jaboulet in the Rhône valley – which includes the jewel of a wine, Jaboulet La Chapelle.  The Frey family has holdings in both Northern Rhône, Hermitage, and major shareholdings to the Champagne house Billecart-Salmon.  Since Caroline took over running the estate, she’s minimized the amount of time the wines of Château La Lagune spend in New Oak as she favors a fresher, more nuanced approach.  

The average age of vines on property is 40 years old, and the oldest vines are about 80 years old.  Though the wines typically favor the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot, they are softer, purer and more expressive.  The wines of Château La Lagune can age and show the best after 6-9 years in bottle.  When enjoyed on the younger side, it is recommended the wines are decanted for 2 hours.   Many consumers taste the wines of Château La Lagune and easily mistaken them for wines from the Margaux region, not the Haut Médoc – some even consider them, “Burgundian.” For those bargain hunters who look for a great wine that over delivers, Château La Lagune is definitely one of the properties worth following.  

"Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 La Lagune strides confidently out of the glass with bold, fantastically pure black fruit notes of crushed black plums, ripe blackcurrants and juicy blackberries, plus hints of tar, dried Provence herbs, star anise and smoked meats, with a hint of black truffles. The medium-bodied palate delivers tightly wound, bright, crunchy black fruits with plenty of freshness and an approachable, grainy texture, finishing long with loads of earthy and herbal sparks." Lisa Perotti-Brown, May 2021 Week 3, The Wine Advocate, (05/20/2021) Rating: 92-94 Drink: 2026-2042

"I loved the 2020 Château La Lagune, and despite the Haut-Médoc offering more challenges in the vintage, you wouldn’t know it by tasting this beauty. Deep purple-hued, with a great nose of blackcurrants, tobacco, violets, and some earthy minerality, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a great mid-palate, and ripe, polished, substantial tannins. It’s a serious 2020 that will need 3-4 years of bottle age and is going to have two decades of longevity." Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2020: En Primeur - Part 1(6/4/2021) Rating: 91-93+

"This comes in strong with both grip and attitude. Some austerity that shows through in the abundant tannic frame, but there is a juiciness that runs through the palate, a sense that it is light on its feet. Liquorice, black chocolate and a spiced tomato leaf adds layers, but things close down on the finish. This is certified organic and in biodynamic conversion. A yield of 30hl/ha." Jane Anson, Best Médoc & Haut Medoc, Moulis & Listrac Wines Tasted 2020 En Primeur Rating: 93

"The 2020 La Lagune is a real standout. Intense, soaring aromatics give this racy Haut-Médoc tons of allure. Graphite, dried herbs, leather, menthol and licorice explode from the glass. A wine of unreal dimension, pedigree and class, the La Lagune is simply lights out in 2020. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous red/purplish fruit intermingled with sweet floral notes that add striking inner perfume." Antonio Galloni, Vinous (June, 2021) Rating: 92-94