Château Cos d’Estournel 2023

Château Cos d'Estournel stands out from the other Bordeaux châteaux in many ways. The exotic, pagoda-like architecture and ornate entryway conjure visions of distant lands in the mind’s eye.  The unconventional is embraced here, and it serves this renegade Second Growth producer well.  Their wines have an exotic and opulent quality yet maintain the longevity that many St-Estèphe producers possess. Though Château Cos d'Estournel was initially classified as a Second Growth in 1855 -- make no mistake, the wines of this producer consistently rival the top tier First Growths vintage after vintage.

The history of this estate begins with Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, whose love of the estate knew no bounds.  He adored exotic places and designed the estate to resemble the architecture of the Orient.  He saw the potential of the terroir at Château Cos d'Estournel due to the close proximity to Lafite Rothschild. He believed the terroir surrounding the estate was a viticultural goldmine and decided to snap up as many parcels of land around him that he could.  Louis Gaspard d’Estournel’s devotion to the estate was almost an obsession; he would frequently drive himself into debt by acquiring parcels of land and expanded the vineyard from 14 to 45 hectares. 

Under Louis’ watchful leadership, Château Cos d'Estournel did not participate in a negociant system because he loved selling wine directly to his loyal client base.  He was a forward thinker and understood the importance of a global marketplace; frequently shipping his wines to foreign countries like India.  Surprisingly, the long journey from France to the Far East facilitated the aging process, his wine often arrived in the various courts of the Indian kingdoms in great conditions.  The terroir of Saint-Estèphe produces wines that give hints of spices, a perfect pairing with the food from India and other Far East cultures, well-known for their use of spices.  The confident owner's devotion to creating quality wine paid off, earning him the title of “The Maharaja of St-Estèphe.” Unfortunately, he passed away before he could bear witness to the fruits of his labor when Château Cos d'Estournel was classified as a Second Growth in 1855.

The cellar of the estate is now a 100% gravity flow winery with wine elevators that replace pumps used in the traditional racking process.  This yields a richer, more sensuous wine.  

Château Cos d'Estournel is a highly versatile estate that makes both red and white wines.  They stand out among many St-Estèphes due to their higher concentrations of Merlot, instead of the usual Cabernet Sauvignon. The white wines of Château Cos d'Estournel also dazzle, with their blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.  Pagodes de Cos, their Second Wine is top notch and considered one of the best produced.  Since the 1980s, Château Cos d'Estournel has catapulted into “Super Second” territory, with wines that rival First Growths.  If he were alive today, Louis Gaspard d’Estournel would surely be very proud. 

"Step into Cos d'Estournel, with its richness, depths and layers of cocoa bean, liquorice, espresso, chocolate, exceptional chewiness on the tannins, making things fairly serious at this early stage, with a promise of slow-revealed pleasure over the decades ahead. First time doing green harvest in the vineyards since 2008, causing some worries over the late heat waves on already ripening grapes, but they have retained balanced alchols here, and there is plenty of juice to lift things up on the finish. Harvest September 12 to 29 (last year finished September 22). 50% new oak for ageing, 53% 1st wine. In organic conversion (that began in 2021, but have had to extend after addition of a few more plots to the vineyard)." - Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, (04/15/2024), Ratings: 97, Drink: 2032-2050

"The Grand Vin 2023 Château Cos D'Estournel checks in as 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and a splash of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, resting in 50% new French oak. This beauty brings everything up a notch, with awesome crème de cassis, graphite, violets, spicy oak, and chocolate-driven aromatics. Rich, full-bodied, and beautifully textured, it has the fresher yet ripe style of the vintage, beautiful tannins, integrated acidity, and a great finish. It's a beautifully elegant yet powerful wine in the making from this team." - Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur, (05/08/2024), Ratings: 95-97

"The 2023 Cos d’Estournel is fabulous. Dark, resonant and inviting, the 2023 has so much to offer. All the elements are beautifully woven together. Black cherry, plum, licorice, espresso, mocha and incense fill out the layers. Readers will find a Cos endowed with tremendous substance and intensity. I can't remember a young Cos with this much fruit concentration, yet there is nothing overdone here. I loved it." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, (04/30/2024), Ratings: 96-98

"The last two decades have witnessed considerable evolution: herbicides were banished, and experimentation with cover crops began in 2002; a new gravity-flow winery was built in 2008; and winemaking and picking dates have evolved. In the past, the wines sometimes flirted with extremes; but in pushing the boundaries, sometimes one exceeds them. Recent vintages have flitted between the more elegant profiles of 2016 (one of the most accomplished wines from this address in recent years), 2017 and 2019, to the chunkier, punchier style of 2020 and 2022. With the 2023 vintage, the team appears to have found their feet very assuredly: with four seeds per berry and tannins that weren't as ripe as in 2022, technical director Dominique Arangoïts took a prudent approach to extraction, with very little crushing, full use of Cos's gravity-flow winery and macerations that were both considerably cooler and somewhat shorter than had been the norm. The result is a very classy, unforced Cos, checking in at only 12.9% alcohol, that renders the power of which this terroir is inherently capable with new sensuality and refinement." - William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, (04/26/2024), Ratings: 95-96 

"Cos d'Estournel may neighbor Lafite-Rothschild, but its vineyards are very different, rising from the banks of the Jalle de Breuil—the small stream that divides Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe—to a height of fully 26 meters above sea level. Cos's clay-gravel vineyards occupy the plateau on top, as well as straddling the slopes, scrolling round the hillside from the east-facing holdings overlooking Lafite to fully south-facing holdings that look out over the Gironde. It's surely this variety of expositions—as well as an average vine age of 55 years—that lend the wine its completeness, power and plenitude. Soil studies, undertaken in 2003, inform parcel-by-parcel farming and winemaking, as well as replanting, where Cos's important percentage of Merlot is gradually tending to diminish."