Château Cantenac Brown 2020

The striking Tudor architecture of Château Cantenac Brown sets this Third Growth apart from the other properties in Margaux.  There’s a proud but friendly atmosphere here.  And there is a lot to be proud of at Château Cantenac Brown.  From the estate’s charming Scottish roots to the expertly crafted and critically acclaimed wines, Château Cantenac Brown is truly one of the gems of the Margaux region.   

Château Cantenac Brown’s story begins with the well-known Scottish animal painter, John Lewis Brown, who purchased the estate in the 19th Century.  He decided to change the architecture of the property to a Tudor Mansion, and thus the iconic red brick façade was built.  The property changed hands several times both before and after it was ranked as a Third Growth Estate in 1855.  This could have been due to a variety of reasons, including the fact that Château Boyd Cantenac was situated in a part of Cantenac that has produced traditionally hard, tannic wines.  It was owned by Remy Martin, AXA – the owners of Château Pichon Baron, and the Halabi family.  In 2019, the estate was acquired by the Le Lous family, who own the property today. They are incredibly passionate about Château Canteanc Brown, and they believe they can take the estate to new heights in terms of quality. 

Tristian Le Lous hails from Burgundy and was introduced to the wines of Bordeaux by his future wife.  He fell in love with both the woman and the wines and began an intensive renovation process after purchasing Château Cantenac Brown.   His latest and most impressive project consists of building an earthen cellar below the estate.  The purpose of this new cellar is to further connect Château Cantenac Brown to the land and create a one-of-a-kind cellar that produces wines of the highest quality.  The cellar is projected to guarantee thermal inertia with the perfect humidity thanks to its walls.  The project was designed by Philippe Madec, a pioneer in eco-construction.  When it is finished, the winery will be a gravity flow winery, preserving the essence of the grapes.

The 62.5-hectare vineyard has plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon,  Merlot, and small plantings of Cabernet Franc.  A small amount of white wine is produced here, and one can find plantings of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon on the property. Though the terroir here is a bit more challenging, with limestone and sand, it is very apparent that those involved in the viticultural processes are able to craft wines that transcend any of nature’s limitations. Château Cantenac Brown practices sustainable viticulture, honoring and respecting the land around them.  There is a valuable ecosystem here, with rare trees such as Sequoias and Spanish Firs.  The estate produces its own honey, which is a product of the biodiversity campaign they have introduced with insect hotels and wildflower hedgerows.  

The wines of Château Cantenac Brown are not meant to be drunk young.  They require some time in the cellar and are usually a bit better with 12-15 years in bottle.  

"The 2020 Cantenac Brown is a knock-out. A Margaux of towering intensity, the 2020 is dense and vertical at the same time. It’s a combination that works so well. Dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice and cloves all saturate the palate. There's real depth and concentration here from the summer heat and small size of the berries, but at the same time the 2020 has more freshness and energy than some recent years. There have been quite a few changes here in recent years, starting with a new parcel on the Margaux plateau that entered the blend in 2019 and move towards lower toast levels in the barrels. Cantenac Brown remains a potent, opulent Margaux, but 2020 has a measure of classicism as well. Superb." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, (02/24/2023), Ratings: 97

"The 2020 Château Cantenac Brown showed beautifully and is a serious, concentrated, powerful Margaux that's going to need bottle age. Ripe blackcurrants, toasty oak, ripe tobacco, and dried flower notes all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, balanced mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. It shows the more focused, slightly understated style of the vintage, yet everything is in the right place, it has terrific purity, and it’s just a brilliant Margaux. I followed this bottle for multiple days, and it never put a foot wrong. It will hit its prime drinking window in 7-8 years and evolve for two decades" - Jeb Dunnuck, Bordeaux 2020, (03/29/2023), Ratings: 96, Drink: 2030-2050

''Consistently impressive Margaux estate, not the most exuberant of wines in this vintage, with a serious tannic structure that hides understated power. There is a lot to enjoy here, and a ton of ageing potential, with cassis and bilberry fruits, bitter chocolate, fennel and spiced sandalwood, softened by crushed roses and peony as it opens. Good quality, needs time. 60% new oak. New owner Tristan le Lous as of 2019, and this wine also includes the new 9.5ha vines of vines from Château Charmant and la Galiane (bought in July 2020), harvest September 10 to 30, José Sanfins director." - Jane Anson, Best 2020 Margaux En Primeur (01/10/2023) Ratings: 94, Drink: 2030-2044

''A fine follow-up to the excellent 2019, the 2020 Cantenac Brown incorporates newly acquired holdings of Cabernet Sauvignon from the plateau of Margaux. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, burning embers and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and terrific purity of fruit. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, it underlines the fact that this is the appellation's fastest-improving estate.'' - William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (04/06/2023) Ratings: 94+, Drink: 2027-2055