Château Brane-Cantenac 2020

If there was one word to describe Château Brane-Cantenac, it would be “meticulous.”  This Second Growth Château in the Margaux appellation firmly believes in slow, methodical, and continuous experimentation in the vat room.  In a 2018 Decanter article, wine journalist Jane Anson describes a rigorous experiment at Château Brane-Cantenac where the estate was comparing different toasts of French and Russian Oak from the Caucasus forests with different lengths of seasoning from 24 to 36 months.  The aim of the study was to discover which type of oak was better for their cooperage and whether the oak should be kept inside a drying park or have exposure to the natural elements such as rainfall.  This is considered a normal experiment at Château Brane-Cantenac. One can clearly see at this estate, complacency is not an option.

Château Brane-Cantenac originates back to the early 17th Century, where it was known as Domaine Guilhem Hosten.  It was one of the most expensive vineyards in Bordeaux and was highly respected long before it was ranked as a Second Growth during the 1855 Classification.  The estate received its namesake when it was purchased by Baron de Brane, a highly respected viticulturalist who was nicknamed, “Napoleon of the Vines.”  The Baron was the owner of the estate Brane-Mouton, another producer that would later become known as the famous First Growth Estate, Château Mouton Rothschild. The Baron sold his holdings of Brane-Mouton to acquire Château Brane-Cantenac.  The estate changed hands in the 1920s to a négociant Château Grand Crus de France that also owned Château Margaux. Eventually Château Brane-Cantenac was acquired by one of the most famous winemaking families in Bordeaux, the Lurton family. 

After several generations, the estate is currently helmed by the ambitious and personable Henri Lurton.  Lurton is not afraid of thinking outside of the box and owns another winery in Baja California called Bodegas Henri Lurton.  With master’s degrees in Biology, Oenology, and Ampelography, he brings his scientific knowledge and love of experimentation to the vineyards at Château Brane-Cantenac. The viticultural team oversees the 75-hectare left bank vineyard with its numerous plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. Under his leadership, 20% of the vineyard is organically farmed and 4 hectares are biodynamically farmed.  Château Brane-Cantenac has its own weather station linked up to the European Demeter Network and for more than ten years has used a website run by Meteo France to show daily weather reports, rain radar, satellite pictures, and long-range forecasts.  

Though not the most outwardly showy wines in Margaux, the wines of Brane-Cantenac are adored because of their highly complex and layered nuances that unfold with time.  They are gorgeously textured, and the fruits shine through with confidence as they age.  They are softer and more accessible than some of the bolder wines of Pauillac and other Margaux Second Growths.  Because of their accessibility and strength, these wines are tremendously versatile.  They can be consumed on the younger side or laid down and enjoyed years later.

"There is an exuberance to the 2020 vintage at Brane Cantenac, with rippling depths to the damson fruit, along with liqourice, graphite, cocoa bean, fine tannins, white pepper, sage. Feels fully ripe but well restrained, very Margaux. 100% new oak with 28 different parameters, including forest origin, level of toasting, width of the grain and time of seasoning the oak staves before barrel construction. Just such a meticulous approach, and no doubt helps deepen the complexity in the final glass, as do choices such as the touch of Carmanère in the blend (and the increase in Cabernet Sauvignon over recent years). Eric Boissenot consultant, 31hl/ha yield." Jane Anson, Decanter, Best of Margaux 2020 Wines Tasted En Primeur, (11/29/2022) Rating: 95 Drink: 2028-2048

"This estate has been on a roll, and their 2020 Château Brane-Cantenac is another brilliant wine that readers will love. Largely in the mold of the 2019, it has a deep purple hue as well as an incredible bouquet of blackcurrants, black cherries, freshly sharpened pencils, tobacco, and flowers. This medium to full-bodied, richly textured, concentrated, yet remarkably elegant 2020 has the vintage's fresher, focused, elegant profile but still brings plenty of flesh and opulence. Beautifully done, it’s going to evolve for a solid 30 years in cold cellars and offer incredible pleasure all its life.'' (03/29/2023) Rating: 97 Drink: 2027-2057

"The 2020 Brane-Cantenac is deep, fleshy and savory. Strong Cabernet accents open first, leading to a core of inky dark fruit, lavender, spice, mint and chocolate. There is some new oak that needs to integrate, but time should take care of that. I especially admire the sense of classicism and energy here. This is a superb showing from Brane-Cantenac and the team led by Henri Lurton." Antonio Galloni, Vinous (June 2021) Rating: 94-96

"The 2020 Brane-Cantenac is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot. It weighs in with 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.71. Deep purple-black colored, it has a beautifully expressive nose of fresh redcurrants, blackcurrant jelly, kirsch and rose oil, plus hints of tobacco leaf, wild sage and crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly styled with a plush texture and plenty of freshness supporting the red berry and earthy flavors, finishing fragrant." Lisa Perotti Brown, May 2021 Week 3 The Wine Advocate, Rating: 91-93 Drink: 2024-2040

''The 2020 Brane-Cantenac Blanc exhibits scents of grapefruit, Sauvignon botanicals, white flowers and pastry cream, followed by a medium-bodied, bright and aromatic palate, concluding with a dry finish. Emphasizing the estery, varietal Sauvignon style so popular in contemporary Bordeaux, it's bottled under Diam.'' William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (12/21/2023) Ratings: 88 Drink: 2021-2025